Story
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Following my Kilimanjaro climb two years ago, I have just climbed Base Camp Everest for Today & Tomorrow, which is a charity set up by ex celebrity Hair stylist and Beauty Therapist Janet Ginnings, to support single parents and their children in marginalised areas, helping to secure them a brighter future, whether for training schemes, education, rehabilitation or general social support.
Walk to Himalayas Base Camp - trek to the top of
the World (well almost..). Each day was a challenge and each time we reached
the next lodge, it felt like a major achievement bringing us closer to our
ultimate goal of getting to Base Camp Everest. We each managed around 4 to 5
hot showers during the trek - the merino wool layers we were wearing were
amazing - they kept the smells away (or so we believed!). The trails were full
of yak poo which we had to avoid as we walked but it became our economical,
ecological fuel friend in the cold mountain tea houses.
Day 1 On the first day of the trek
we flew to the mountain airstrip in Lukla at 2800m (known as the most dangerous
airport in the World). Prior to and during the flight, everyone pulled out
their cameras and videos to capture take-off, the flight through the beautiful
mountains and the landing on the short mountain airstrip - which ended up being
a smooth landing. We were lucky with the weather and very lucky with the
landing - yes we survived!. We shared the flight with a Japanese group who we
saw further up the trek.
As soon as
we arrived in Lukla we headed off down the 'milk river' to Phakding at 2652m.
The trail was painted with rhododendrons and gave us a glimpse into local
Nepalese life as we passed small villages and settlements. The Phakding lodge
was larger than we all expected and it looked almost like a village.
Day 2 - We had a very long walk to
Namche Bazaar (c3400m) which offered a beautiful trail of rhododendrons, fir
trees and small flowers. The climb was very tough and involved step after step
after step. Shortly before arriving at the lodge I started feeling ill as did
another member of the group. Fortunately I was able to drink a lot of water and
improve slowly over the next couple of days. Here the guide bought us
down-booties to use in the mountain lodges during the cold evenings. The lodge
in Namche Bazaar had an en-suite hot shower and was one of the last places to
afford us such luxury.
Day 3 - We
walked to a Japanese mountain hotel (Everest View Hotel) at around 3880m and the
walk was stunning (although I fell ill again nearing the top). The hotel was
beautiful and had stunning views of the mountain area. It was also the final
stop for the Japanese group we had met on the plane. We then headed off to the
next lodge at Kyanjuma to settle for the night. The host at the lodge was
amazing and tried her best to keep our spirits high and ensure that everyone was
drinking liquids and eating enough. One of the group members had taken the low
altitude route and had to leave us because of altitude sickness. He was picked
up by an emergency helicopter thanks to the guide's help who was able to
diagnose him with altitude sickness. We all said good-bye to him in the
morning. We walked a bit further up and saw a glimpse of Mount Everest - yet
more incentive to reach our goal.
Day 4 - We trekked to Thyangboche (3867m). From here we had a
fantastic view of Everest again which provided further incentive to reach our
goal.
Days 5/6 - We climbed to
Dingboche at 4530m. We spent two days at this lodge which was heaven just to be
able to stay in one place for more than a day so no packing!. The lodge area had a bakery had tea and chocolate brownies (the bakery has an amazing reputation as being one of the best). The lodge was
like a settlement with little shops. Even though we had a day of rest, we still
did an acclimatisation walk.
Day 7
- We headed to Lobuje (4930m) and passed a line of memorials to those that had died
on Everest. Some people took photos at this stage but I could not bring myself
to take any pictures. It felt like a very sad place but at least the climbers
died following their dreams.
Day 8 -
Everest Base Camp here we come!. This was the day of the climb to Everest Base
Camp which ended up being longer and harder than we ever anticipated. It was a
very long walk and seemed never ending - our legs became heavier and heavier as
the day passed. We passed a rock fall area and had to cross it hastily which
was not that easy as there were very slippy areas - our superhero guides were
amazing and helped us work our way through the dangerous path. We saw a rock
fall in front of us and narrowly miss the group ahead - the girl in the group
looked shocked and could barely move - luckily they had guides and someone had
shouted to them to watch out. We all arrived at base camp, took our photos,
breathed in the air, enjoyed the moment and then began the long walk back across
the dangerous rock fall area. We made it and headed to Gorak Shep - where the
facilities had frozen - yuk!. We were lucky with the weather at Base Camp
Everest - it was warm and clear - phew!
Day 9 - there was an optional trek to Kala Pathar but the views were
dreadful because of clouds and we all gave the climb a miss - phew!. The
morning walk back (down and up the mountain) was freezing and difficult because
snow had set in. We all slipped and fell down at some point or another - it was
like cross-country skiing.
Trek
back to Lukla - As we got closer to Lukla and the weather warmed up and we got
more oxygen in our systems, everyone's spirits picked up. We each caught a cold on
the way down or ended up with some ailment - dodgy knees, bad ankle, bad coughs or
colds. But we survived the trip!
Day in Lukla - As soon as we arrive in Lukla we celebrated our
success with capuccino and cake at Starbucks, beer and drinks at the Irish bar
and a big meal and drinks at the lodge. I left our names on the wall in the
Irish bar for future travellers to read. Everyone was on cloud nine! and spirits were high. The
flight back to Lukla was smooth and we were lucky with the weather - it could
have been a different story but we made it back to Kathmandu. Another group
member left us on Sunday to head back to London and the remainder of the group
relaxed and chilled with more food and drinks in Kathmandu at the Yak and Yeti
undoing all the good work done on the trek. After leaving Kathmandu and
surviving almost 3 weeks in Nepal, we all fell ill to 'ground level illness' -
we never thought we would have to acclimatise to sea level.